3.30.2009
I need a few people to represent our Garden Group at the SL Library, Thursday, April 2nd, 7:30 - 8:45 pm
Julia and Chris are attending this meeting.
This is a group that I am acquainted with who are forming a local Food Shed from people, like us, who are planting gardens all over the SL valley. I've been to one of the meetings and it's a good group of people and we need to stay in the loop. Whoever can go, needs to tell them that you are representing Sheryl McGlochlin and her Holladay Garden Group. They should remember me. Your contact person is: Shane Smith. Details are in the letter below. RSVP and let me know BEFORE Thursday (since I'm leaving town Thursday morning) if you can go to this important Local Food meeting. The following is the email he just sent to me on Monday, March 30, 2009.
Hello friends,
It's almost time to talk local food again. We will address from seed to table, the multiple facets of local food production and distribution and will begin to define the Regional Foodshed Publication Products our team will be producing. The following agenda is somewhat simplistic, but my hope is that we as a team will decide what will be doing together to educate and promote the many aspects of Local Food. I'm excited to see all of you again (as well as those who will be joining us for the first time). Also, please forward this to those not on the list who may be interested in learning more or aiding this effort.
WHAT (brief, vague but hopefully catchy agenda):
* Fabulous Introductions
* The Fruits of our labor: Develop an extraordinary Vision for our work as a team
* Row-by-Row: Identify next steps and who will be helping with what (this could be catchier, I know)
The details of the gathering: location
WHERE: Salt Lake City Main Library Downtown, Conference Room C, level 1
WHO: All of us and then some (open to the public)
WHEN: Thursday, April 2nd, 2009 from 7:30p to 8:45p, I will be in the room sometime around 7p.
This is a group that I am acquainted with who are forming a local Food Shed from people, like us, who are planting gardens all over the SL valley. I've been to one of the meetings and it's a good group of people and we need to stay in the loop. Whoever can go, needs to tell them that you are representing Sheryl McGlochlin and her Holladay Garden Group. They should remember me. Your contact person is: Shane Smith. Details are in the letter below. RSVP and let me know BEFORE Thursday (since I'm leaving town Thursday morning) if you can go to this important Local Food meeting. The following is the email he just sent to me on Monday, March 30, 2009.
Hello friends,
It's almost time to talk local food again. We will address from seed to table, the multiple facets of local food production and distribution and will begin to define the Regional Foodshed Publication Products our team will be producing. The following agenda is somewhat simplistic, but my hope is that we as a team will decide what will be doing together to educate and promote the many aspects of Local Food. I'm excited to see all of you again (as well as those who will be joining us for the first time). Also, please forward this to those not on the list who may be interested in learning more or aiding this effort.
WHAT (brief, vague but hopefully catchy agenda):
* Fabulous Introductions
* The Fruits of our labor: Develop an extraordinary Vision for our work as a team
* Row-by-Row: Identify next steps and who will be helping with what (this could be catchier, I know)
The details of the gathering: location
WHERE: Salt Lake City Main Library Downtown, Conference Room C, level 1
WHO: All of us and then some (open to the public)
WHEN: Thursday, April 2nd, 2009 from 7:30p to 8:45p, I will be in the room sometime around 7p.
Dimensions of our Current Gardens
Here are the dimensions of each of our properties:
1) Sheryl's Garden: 25' x 69'
2) Sheryl's Extention Garden (a 2nd garden space near the Green Flower Cart): 16' x 17'
3) Corn Patch Garden - 88' x 59'
4) Jim and Kathy's Garden - 16' 8" x 21' 4"
5) Vicki's Garden - 52' x 17' 9" tapering off to 7' 8" on the other end. Length stays 52'
6) Mt. Springs Garden - 8 Box Gardens
Two 4' x 4' 4", two 4' x 4' 2", two 4' x 5' 8", two 4' x 5'10"
These are in partial shade - can't plant anything that needs full sun in these box gardens.
7) Lois's Garden - Box garden area that is a VERY low priority right now, since we would have to get all the materials, build the boxes and furnish all the dirt, etc.
We have dropped the Heart of Holladay Garden AND the Horse Pasture Garden this season but have been given two other garden properties that are even better!
1) Sheryl's Garden: 25' x 69'
2) Sheryl's Extention Garden (a 2nd garden space near the Green Flower Cart): 16' x 17'
3) Corn Patch Garden - 88' x 59'
4) Jim and Kathy's Garden - 16' 8" x 21' 4"
5) Vicki's Garden - 52' x 17' 9" tapering off to 7' 8" on the other end. Length stays 52'
6) Mt. Springs Garden - 8 Box Gardens
Two 4' x 4' 4", two 4' x 4' 2", two 4' x 5' 8", two 4' x 5'10"
These are in partial shade - can't plant anything that needs full sun in these box gardens.
7) Lois's Garden - Box garden area that is a VERY low priority right now, since we would have to get all the materials, build the boxes and furnish all the dirt, etc.
We have dropped the Heart of Holladay Garden AND the Horse Pasture Garden this season but have been given two other garden properties that are even better!
Earth Day, April 22, 2009, We need your help.
VENDOR INFORMATION
Welcome to Earthfest at the University of Utah!
Date: Earthday, April 22, 2009
Where: The University Union Patio Walkway
Time: The fair is from 10:30 am until 1:30 pm. Parking is available in the visitor
lot east of the Union building and Alumni lot for overflow. Validations
will be provided. Check-in will be at the Student Affairs Information Booth
on the Patio Walkway.
1 table and 2 chairs will be provided for each vendor with additional tables and chairs available upon request. Please handle transactions manually, electricity is limited.
Flat carts or sidewalk passes will be available to unload/load on the Union Patio Walkway.
There will be a raffle and we are asking all vendors to donate one item.
Indoor backup will be in the Union Ballroom.
We are asking vendors to please practice Leave No Trace.
Directions to the University Union (Student Union), 200 South Central Campus Drive: The most direct approach would be 1300 East to 100 South. Turn right (east) on 100 South. 100 South curves as you enter campus and becomes North Campus Drive. Turn right at the first light, Central Campus Drive, the Union building is about ¼ mile south of the light.
Thank you for your participation in Earthfest. Please confirm by April 8, 2009.
Karol Conrad
Student Affairs Sustainability Committee
University of Utah
801-581-7251 conrad@union.utah.edu
Welcome to Earthfest at the University of Utah!
Date: Earthday, April 22, 2009
Where: The University Union Patio Walkway
Time: The fair is from 10:30 am until 1:30 pm. Parking is available in the visitor
lot east of the Union building and Alumni lot for overflow. Validations
will be provided. Check-in will be at the Student Affairs Information Booth
on the Patio Walkway.
1 table and 2 chairs will be provided for each vendor with additional tables and chairs available upon request. Please handle transactions manually, electricity is limited.
Flat carts or sidewalk passes will be available to unload/load on the Union Patio Walkway.
There will be a raffle and we are asking all vendors to donate one item.
Indoor backup will be in the Union Ballroom.
We are asking vendors to please practice Leave No Trace.
Directions to the University Union (Student Union), 200 South Central Campus Drive: The most direct approach would be 1300 East to 100 South. Turn right (east) on 100 South. 100 South curves as you enter campus and becomes North Campus Drive. Turn right at the first light, Central Campus Drive, the Union building is about ¼ mile south of the light.
Thank you for your participation in Earthfest. Please confirm by April 8, 2009.
Karol Conrad
Student Affairs Sustainability Committee
University of Utah
801-581-7251 conrad@union.utah.edu
As of March 29, see what we've planted...
Our gardens are looking better and better EVERY week!! We have planted spinach, lettuce, carrots, peas and beets from seed. These are cold weather plants and it's a perfect time to get them in the ground. We'll continue to plant more every week so we have produce coming up continually throughout the season.
Based on some expert advice, we have made some adjustments on where we will plant our veggies but since we have a TON of space and the soil is VERY rich on all of our properties, it's not a problem.
Indoors, we are continuing to grow (from seeds) 48 plants of cabbage, peppers, broccoli, and lots of tomatoes.
To those who came this week, we gave away lots of bagels and samples of my delicious Apricot Freezer Jam that we'll be making again this summer. During the coming weeks, all those who come and help in the garden will get more samples of these treats - including another super delicious freezer jam we made last year - Freezer Pear Jam! You won't believe how good these low-sugar freezer jams taste! I'll be sharing the recipes with you soon also.
Based on some expert advice, we have made some adjustments on where we will plant our veggies but since we have a TON of space and the soil is VERY rich on all of our properties, it's not a problem.
Indoors, we are continuing to grow (from seeds) 48 plants of cabbage, peppers, broccoli, and lots of tomatoes.
To those who came this week, we gave away lots of bagels and samples of my delicious Apricot Freezer Jam that we'll be making again this summer. During the coming weeks, all those who come and help in the garden will get more samples of these treats - including another super delicious freezer jam we made last year - Freezer Pear Jam! You won't believe how good these low-sugar freezer jams taste! I'll be sharing the recipes with you soon also.
Vegetable Gardening 101
1. Grow only those vegetables you enjoy eating. Give priority to those prized for incredible flavor when eaten fresh from the garden: sweet corn, beans and peas, tomatoes and young spinach, among others.
2. Prepare a plot of flat ground that gets full sun nearly all day. Break up and turn the soil and add compost or other organic material (See How to Buy Soil Amendments). A full day of blazing sunshine is especially important if you grow vegetables in the cool weather of early spring, early fall or winter.
3. Figure out how much growing space you have and plant accordingly. Lettuce, for example, can be grown in a solid mat, but tomatoes need to be spaced about 2 feet (60 cm) apart. Give pumpkins at least 4 feet (120 cm) of growing room. Growing requirements are provided on seed packets, in catalogs, and on nursery tags, as well as in books on growing vegetables.
4. Choose crops that require less room if you have a small garden or grow vegetables in a container. Lettuce is a great pot plant, and 'Patio' or 'Tumbler' tomatoes will grow well in a hanging basket. Plants that climb and vine, such as cucumbers and pole beans, can be trained up a trellis to take up less room horizontally. Tuck herbs and parsley into flower beds.
5. Schedule plantings around the two main growing seasons which vary by region: cool (spring and fall) and warm (summer). Common cool-season vegetables include beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach and turnips. Warm-season crops include beans, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, peppers, pumpkins, squash and tomatoes.
6. Sow some seeds directly in the ground as they grow best that way: beans, beets, carrots, chard, corn, lettuce, melons, peas, pumpkins, squash and turnips. Starting seeds is, of course, much less expensive than planting seedlings sold in flats, packs and pots.
7. Start with nursery seedlings of certain other crops unless you are an experienced vegetable grower. These plants tend to do better when set out in the garden as seedlings: eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower. Squash and cucumbers are among a few you can plant just as effectively as either seeds or seedlings.
8. Buy seeds at nurseries or by mail order starting just after the New Year, when the selection is freshest. Look for seed packets marked as having been packed for the current year.
9. Buy vegetables online and from mail-order companies for a far greater selection than you'll find at neighborhood nurseries. Burpee (burpee.com), Johnny's Selected Seeds (johnnyseeds .com), Park Seed Company (parkseed.com) and Thompson and Morgan (thompson-morgan.com) are a few long-established sources.
10. Shop for seedlings when your soil is prepared and you are ready to plant. Keep them moist and don't let them sit around for more than three days before planting. Buy healthy and vigorous seedlings. They should stand up straight & be stocky, not lanky, with no yellow leaves or bug holes.
11. Save money and get truly involved with your garden by starting seeds indoors in winter and transplanting them into the garden in spring. It's simplest to start with complete kits, sold at garden centers and through catalogs, containing fluorescent lights, soil mix, containers and watering devices.
12. Sow seeds of colorful radishes or giant sunflowers to introduce children to the satisfaction and fun of growing their own food. Or lean 3 stakes together, tie them together at the top, and train pole beans up the stakes. Voila`! A bean teepee.
Avoiding Weeds In Your Vegetable Garden
No one likes to weed a garden. Fortunately, there are several things that can help prevent weeds in the first place, so you won't have to deal with them once the garden is planted (or at least, not nearly as many of them).
1. Before you plant, clear the ground and put some extra time into clearing the soil of any perennial weeds. Make sure you get as much of the root as possible - not just the part that's visible - so the weeds won’t grow back.
2. Don't disturb the soil during routine care. Cultivating the soil in your garden can bring weed seeds up to the surface where they can sprout. Try to keep the soil disturbance to a minimum when maintaining your garden throughout the growing season.
3. Crop rotation. Some crops are more capable of fighting weeds than others. For example, potatoes can crowd out the weeds a lot more easily than onions. By rotating your crops around your garden from one year to the next, it's less likely that weeds will build up in one part of it.
4. Mulch. Cover bare soil with mulch to keep weeds from getting the light they need to grow. This can be organic mulch, such as rotted compost, or inorganic mulch such as landscape cloth. Organic mulch is easier to spread between the vegetables you have planted. It should be one to three inches deep to suppress weeds.
Growing Vegetables In Small Spaces or Container
While a huge garden with almost limitless space is a dream for most gardeners, the reality is we usually only have a fraction of what we would like. Some of us might even be limited to a few small planters on a porch or balcony. Don't let that discourage you though. It just means you need to plan a little differently.
You'll want to grow vegetables that are high yielding. For example, a single zucchini planted in a container could produce a dozen or more fruit over the course of the summer, where the same container planted with spinach might only produce enough for a single serving (or less).
Vegetables that thrive when planted in containers include: tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, carrots, chard, lettuce, beans, peas, and cucumbers.
How To Have A Constant Supply Of Vegetables
Have you ever found yourself with way too much of a vegetable when the time comes that it's ready to harvest? The problem is the way most people plant their garden - a row of one vegetable, another row of a second one and so on.
The more effective way to plant that will give you a steady supply of vegetables over a longer season is called succession planting. Basically, instead of a single row of each vegetable split a single row into multiple vegetables. So one row might have 3 or 4 sections, each with its own seeds planted.
Then two weeks later, plant the same group in the second row. Two weeks later, do it again in the third row.
This way, each row will be ready to harvest two weeks after the previous one, giving you a fresh supply for longer, and keeping you from having to find ways to get rid of all the extras.
Garden Planning 101
The size of your garden will depend on several things:
* How many mouths you're feeding
* How much time you have to spend in it
* How enthusiastic you are about gardening
Keep in mind that you shouldn't be too ambitious, especially if you're new to vegetable gardening. A garden that's too big quickly become a chore rather than a fun hobby.
Unless your yard requires it, it's best to avoid flowing, unusual shapes. Stick with squares or rectangle as they allow for more efficient use of space. Plus, they tend to make it easier to reach everything in the garden for maintenance and harvesting once your vegetables get larger.
When you're planning your vegetable garden, one of the things to consider is what's on the ground where you want to plant? If it's bare soil, you're halfway there, but it's more likely lawn if you haven't planted a garden before. If you need to get rid of grass for your garden, it's not a difficult thing to do, just use a sharp spade to undercut the sod and remove it.
Trees or shrubs are another story - they can be a lot more difficult to relocate or even to simply remove if you no longer want them. The roots can be far-reaching as well and may interfere with your garden when it comes time to start digging.
When you're planning the location for your garden, think about how much time and effort you want to put in. If your ideal spot is going to take too much time or work, you might want to think about an alternative.
Preparing the soil
Fertile, well drained soil is necessary for a successful garden. The exact type of soil is not so important as that it be well drained, well supplied with organic matter, reasonably free of stones, and moisture retentive. The subsoil also is very important. Hard shale, rock ledges, gravel beds, deep sand, or hardpan under the surface may make the development of garden soil extremely difficult or impossible. On the other hand, infertile soil that has good physical properties can be made productive by using organic matter, lime, commercial fertilizer, and other soil improving materials.
If your garden has already been cultivated and used in past years, there is little to do other than to plow in additional organic material, and fertilizers. The fertilizer may be in the form of composted manure or any good commercial complete plant food distributed at a rate of 3 or 4 pounds for every thousand square feet of vegetable garden. Infertile soil will often benefit from even larger proportions of chemical fertilization, but care must be taken not to add too much because of the danger of fertilizer burn. When manure is added to the soil, it must be composted prior to planting, because fresh, hot manure will also burn your plants.
As Your Garden Grows:
During dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more water each week, especially when they are fruiting.
If possible, use a drip hose or drip system for watering. With a drip system, you don’t loose any water to evaporation. It also encourages less rot or blight on tomatoes and other vegetables.
Mulching between the rows will help to control weeds, conserve moisture in the soil, and provide you with pathways to access your plants. Black plastic may be used, or you can utilize grass clippings, straw, wood chips, or garden debris.
Throughout the growing season be vigilante against insect pests. Discovering a bug problem early will make it much easier to take appropriate action and eliminate the pests. Do not use pesticides once the plants have fruited unless it becomes an absolute necessity, and be sure to follow the manufacturers recommendations.
Weeds rob your vegetables of water, light and root space. Keep them pulled out regularly (try to get the entire root) and the job isn't too bad. If they are allowed to go to seed, you may be dealing with thousands of weeds instead of a few. Once you have harvested your crop, put the spent plant and other vegetable matter into your compost pile so that it can be recycled into your garden again, next spring.
Resources:
The KSL Greenhouse with Tim Hughes and Larry Sagers
airs each Saturday morning from 8 am - 11 am.
Check KSL Classifieds and Craigslist for plant exchanges or giveaways.
www.larrysagers.com/articles.html
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/pub__8066784.pdf
www.veggiegardeningtips.com
http://gardening.about.com/
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/kitchen/
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/utgard/ (Utah info)
www.gardenguides.com/how-to/tipstechniques/vegetables/
www.gardenersnet.com
www.squarefootgardening.com
http://www.wasatchgardens.org/Library/
www.parkseed.com or www.burpee.com
www.heirloomseeds.com
www.waysidegardens.com
www.jacksonandperkins.com
www.gardeners.com
www.garden.com
How To Square Foot Garden
It's easy to get started with your own square foot garden at home. As easy as 1, 2, 3 and you'll be harvesting in no time!
1. Pick the location. Location Matters!
* Pick an area that gets 6-8 hours of sunshine daily.
* Stay clear of trees and shrubs where roots and shade may interfere.
* Have it close to the house for convenience.
* Existing soil is not really important, since you won't be using it.
* Area should not puddle after a heavy rain.
2. Follow The Ten Basics
1. LAYOUT - Arrange your garden in squares, not rows. Lay it out in 4'x4' planting areas.
2. BOXES - Build boxes to hold a new soil mix above ground.
3. AISLES - Space boxes 3' apart to form walking aisles.
4. SOIL - Fill boxes with special soil mix: 1/3 blended compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 coarse vermiculite.
5. GRID - Make a permanent square foot grid for the top of each box. A MUST!
6. CARE - NEVER WALK ON YOUR GROWING SOIL. Tend your garden from the aisles.
7. SELECT - Plant a different flower, vegetable, or herb crop in each square foot, using 1, 4, 9, or 16 plants per square foot.
8. PLANT - Conserve seeds. Plant only a pinch (2 or 3 seeds) per hole. Place transplants in a slight saucer-shaped depression.
9. WATER - Water by hand from a bucket of sun-warmed water.
10. HARVEST - When you finish harvesting a square foot, add compost and replant it with a new and different crop.
MORE DETAILS ABOUT THE 10 BASICS OF SFG:
LAYOUT: Always think in squares: lay out 4 foot by 4 foot planting areas with wide walkways between them.
BOXES: 4x4 Foot Garden -- Build garden box frames no wider than 4 feet, and 6 to 8 inches deep. The length is not as important, but a recommended size for your first time is one frame 4 foot by 4 foot. You can, of course, go smaller. A 2 foot by 2 foot works great on patios and 3 foot by 3 foot box is ideal for kids. Frames can be made from almost any material except treated wood, which has toxic chemicals that might leach into the soil. 1 by 6 or 2 by 6 lumber is ideal, and comes in 8-foot lengths. Most lumber yards will cut it in half at little or no cost. Exact dimensions are not critical. Deck screws work best to fasten the boards together. Rotate or alternate corners to end up with a square inside.
AISLES: If you plan to have more than one garden box, separate them by 2 or 3 feet to form walkways.
SOIL: Fill frame with a mixture of 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 coarse vermiculite (no dirt needed). A blended compost made from many ingredients provides all the nutrients the plants require (no chemical fertilizers needed). Peat moss and vermiculite help hold moisture and keep the soil loose. It's best to make your own compost from many ingredients but if you have to buy it, make sure it is truly compost. Some stores sell mulch or humus and other ground covers but call it compost. Most commercial compost is made from one or two ingredients so to be safe, don't buy all of one kind but one of each kind until you have enough for your garden. It's really best to make your own compost, then you know what goes in it. When buying vermiculite, be sure to get the coarse grade, and get the more economical 4 cubic foot size bags. If placing frames over grass you can dig out the grass or cover it with cardboard or landscape cloth to discourage grass and weeds from coming up through your new garden soil.
GRID: On top of each frame place a permanent grid that divides the box into one foot squares. The grid is the unique feature that makes the whole system work so well. To show you why the grid is so important, do this little demonstration: Look at your 4 foot by 4 foot box with the grid on and imagine up to 16 different crops. What you see before you is a neat and attractive, well organized garden, that will be easy to manage. Now remove the grid. Could you organize and manage this space without dividing it up into squares? Besides, without the grid you will be tempted to plant in rows, which is a poor use of space. Grids can be made from nearly any material; wood, plastic strips, old venetian blinds, etc. Use screws or rivets to attach them where they cross. On a 4 foot by 4 foot frame, the grid divides the frame into 16 easy-to-manage spaces, for up to 16 different crops. Leave the grid in place all season. The grid can be cut long enough to fit across the top of the box or cut shorter to lay on the soil inside the box.
CARE: Since you will NEVER walk on or depress the growing soil, don't make the frames any wider than 4 feet (2 feet, if only one side is accessible). Any wider makes it too difficult to reach in to tend the plants.
SELECT: Depending on the mature size of the plant, grow 1, 4, 9, or 16 equally spaced plants per square foot. If the seed packet recommends plant spacing be 12 inches apart, plant one plant per square foot. If 6 inch spacing; 4 per square foot. If 4 inch spacing; 9 per square foot. If 3 inch spacing; 16 per square foot.
PLANT: Plant one or two seeds in each spot by making a shallow hole with your finger. Cover, but do not pack the soil. Thinning is all but eliminated. Seeds are not wasted. Extra seeds can be stored cool and dry in your refrigerator. Don't over-plant. Plant only as much of any one crop as you will use. This 4 foot by 4 foot box will grow more than a conventional garden that is 8 foot by 10 foot.
WATER: Water only as much as each plant needs. Water often, especially at first, and on very hot dry days, If possible, water by hand ( uses a lot less water ) with a cup from a sun-warmed bucket of water. Warm water helps the soil warm up in early and late season.
HARVEST: Harvest continually and when a crop in one square is gone, add some new compost and plant a new different crop in that square.
Tips from the experts:
Diane and Dare Allen:
If you want a successful garden, put most of your effort into creating excellent soil.
Best way to water your garden is with a drip system.
Favorite nursery: Willard Bay Nursery - 7095 S Highway 89, Willard, UT 84340 www.willardbaygardens.com/
If you expect to loose 20% of your crops every year and you’ll be happy with your garden
Marion Searle:
The KSL program “Greenhouse” with Tim Hughes and Larry Sagers that airs each Saturday morning from 8am to 11am is a wonderful way to learn about gardening.
Another great source of information is Larry Sagers. www.larrysagers.com
Mini Hicks:
Grow what you know your family will eat
Figure out what grows well in your yard. Mini can’t grow beet in her yard but her daughter-in-law, Karen, can.
Trial and error is inevitable. That is how you learn what grows best in your garden
Mini plants her peas mid-March, no matter what the weather. She just pokes the ground with a pencil and plants the seeds.
Share the bounty!
Heidi Bethers:
Heidi likes raised box beds that are long and thin. This way you can access all plants without having to step into the bed. SHe has included a list of her favorite gardening websites at the end of this email.
Joyce and Julie Miller:
Don't grow tomatoes on a hill.
Don't grow pumpkins next to squash or zucchini. You won't get any zucchini and the pumpkins will be small.
Favorite Nurseries:
Tri-City Nursery in Kaysville.
Cook's Greenhouse Nursery in Orem.
If you like seeds, you really need to see Granite Seed Company's website. They're in Lehi.
Wasatch Shadows in Sandy.
Linden Nursery in Lindon .
Alpine Gardens in Brigham (Perry actually)
Willard Bay Gardens is the best place in the state for perennials. It’s in Box Elder County.
Millcreek Gardens on 9th at about 35th south.
J & J Nursery in Layton (Best tomato plants!)
High Country Gardens. They have a good selection of plants that are water-wise.
There is a lady in Brigham (Edna Secrist) that has the very cheapest prices for a somewhat limited selection of perennials. She sells out of her yard. Price is $3 for well established gallon plants. Some are as high as $4. She propagates her own and they have all gone through one Utah winter. Drive east on 600 south in Brigham. Her home is on the south side of the street several blocks up. After mid-April when she gets the pots out of her greenhouse you can't miss it.
Empire Gardens (Wholesale & retail, easiest way to find it is to head north on 700 East and around 3600 South look for a tiny street marked "Empire" on your right.) Bring a checkbook & look for Ruth. Knock on the door if you can't find anyone. Great for gallon pots of drought resistant perennials, shrubs, trees. Family relationship with Millcreek Gardens.
Cactus & Tropicals (corner of 2000 E & 2700 S)
Farmers Market (8am Saturday at Pioneer Park) Consider the lilies near Borski Farms & Caputo's on north side of market, heading east. Empire Gardens has a sampling of plants further west on that north side walkway.
Vineyard Nursery just west of Orem off Geneva Road. Not fancy but their prices are about 25% less than everywhere and it feels really homey
Helpful Gardening Websites
Gardening online is one of the best tools a gardener has. We now have access to current research, new plant introductions and wonderful photographs to help us identify all kinds of disgusting plant pests and disease problems. Here are some sites that are truly helpful:
1. The Plants Database at Dave's Garden.com
Dave's site is a gardener friendly destination. The plant database is billed as the largest in the world, "...with 86,188 entries, 58,365 images and 33,503 comments." You can search by name or plant characteristics or just browse through the pictures. Searches are limited if you are not a registered member, but membership is free. davesgarden.com
2. Fine Gardening Magazine's Guide to Pronouncing Botanical Latin
Now this is fun. If you've ever wondered how to pronounce some of those tongue twisters, like maybe agastache foeniculum, you can hear it here. Fine Gardening always includes a phonetic list of the plants mentioned in their magazine, but nothing beats hearing it pronounced. taunton.com
3. Cyndi's Catalog of Garden Catalogs
Contacts and critiques of more than 2,000 catalogs from around the world. Is there a better service that could be provided to an avid gardener? gardenlist.com
4. Cooperative Extension Systems
Every state has a Cooperative Extension System. Regional offices offer location specific advice on a broad array of topics, including gardening. Most have gardening hotlines and offer informational fact sheets, soil testing and pest identification for free or a nominal cost. Often the help is provided by Master Gardeners who are trained to assist the agriculture agents with home gardener's needs. You might even want to check out the requirements for becoming a Master Gardener yourself. extension.usu.edu - or pick another state (VA has a great site)
5. Insect Identification Laboratory, Dept. of Entomology, VA Tech
You may have to do some digging around , but this content rich site provides excellent insect images, including household pests and those that attack ornamentals and edibles. It also goes into control measures and pesticide info. Much of the information is broken down by type of problem, such as Insects that feed on leaves or bore into wood. everest.ento.vt.edu
6. Vegetable MD Online
There is nothing like a picture when you are trying to identify what's wrong with your plants. Unlike ornamentals that all seem to share the same fungal disease problems, vegetables can exhibit an abundance of symptoms. That's why Cornell's Vegetable MD Online is so popular. There's a photo gallery for identifying the problem, fact sheets for solving it and IPM links to keep it from happening again. vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/Home.htm
7. Extoxnet - Pesticide Information Profiles
Extoxnet (EXtension TOXicology NETwork) is the joint venture of a handful of land-grant universities across the U.S. They provide Pesticide Information Profiles (PIPs) which give specific information on a pesticide's health and environmental effects. Be sure to follow label instructions when using any pesticide. extoxnet.orst.edu
8. The U.S. National Arboretum - Invasive Plants
Whether its' kudzu, garlic mustard or purple loosetrife, the best way to deal with an invasive plant is to keep it out of your garden. Here the experts give you tips on dealing with enthusiastic unwelcome garden guests. There are links to each state's Invasive Plant Council, with lists and photos of plants to be on the lookout for. usna.usda.gov/Gardens/invasives.html
9. Cornell University Poisonous Plants Informational Database
A lot of misinformation about which plants are poisonous has found its way into "common knowledge". Here you can search for information on particular plants, like your Christmas Poinsettia, or find out what plants to avoid to keep you, your kids, your pets and even your livestock safe. ansci.cornell.edu/plants/
10. About.com Gardening Forum
What is so great about this forum is how knowledgeable the participants are and the wide geographic distribution of their experience. If you're the type who likes to chat with other gardeners (and you're constantly censored by other forums for it) you'll also find some good conversation here.
Reprinted from About.com’s website
Try also:
bbc.co.uk/gardening/ -- has a great online gardening diary and other great tips and garden ideas, plant lists and pest lists
larrysagers.com -- local gardening radio host with lots of local gardening information. Check out the Gardening Articles section for great advice on many topics.
Also go to KSL.com Follow links to radio, Saturday lineup, and greenhouse show for more local gardening tips.
HAPPY SURFING! Call Heidi Bethers 801-273-0030 if you have a favorite site to recommend.
2. Prepare a plot of flat ground that gets full sun nearly all day. Break up and turn the soil and add compost or other organic material (See How to Buy Soil Amendments). A full day of blazing sunshine is especially important if you grow vegetables in the cool weather of early spring, early fall or winter.
3. Figure out how much growing space you have and plant accordingly. Lettuce, for example, can be grown in a solid mat, but tomatoes need to be spaced about 2 feet (60 cm) apart. Give pumpkins at least 4 feet (120 cm) of growing room. Growing requirements are provided on seed packets, in catalogs, and on nursery tags, as well as in books on growing vegetables.
4. Choose crops that require less room if you have a small garden or grow vegetables in a container. Lettuce is a great pot plant, and 'Patio' or 'Tumbler' tomatoes will grow well in a hanging basket. Plants that climb and vine, such as cucumbers and pole beans, can be trained up a trellis to take up less room horizontally. Tuck herbs and parsley into flower beds.
5. Schedule plantings around the two main growing seasons which vary by region: cool (spring and fall) and warm (summer). Common cool-season vegetables include beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach and turnips. Warm-season crops include beans, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, peppers, pumpkins, squash and tomatoes.
6. Sow some seeds directly in the ground as they grow best that way: beans, beets, carrots, chard, corn, lettuce, melons, peas, pumpkins, squash and turnips. Starting seeds is, of course, much less expensive than planting seedlings sold in flats, packs and pots.
7. Start with nursery seedlings of certain other crops unless you are an experienced vegetable grower. These plants tend to do better when set out in the garden as seedlings: eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower. Squash and cucumbers are among a few you can plant just as effectively as either seeds or seedlings.
8. Buy seeds at nurseries or by mail order starting just after the New Year, when the selection is freshest. Look for seed packets marked as having been packed for the current year.
9. Buy vegetables online and from mail-order companies for a far greater selection than you'll find at neighborhood nurseries. Burpee (burpee.com), Johnny's Selected Seeds (johnnyseeds .com), Park Seed Company (parkseed.com) and Thompson and Morgan (thompson-morgan.com) are a few long-established sources.
10. Shop for seedlings when your soil is prepared and you are ready to plant. Keep them moist and don't let them sit around for more than three days before planting. Buy healthy and vigorous seedlings. They should stand up straight & be stocky, not lanky, with no yellow leaves or bug holes.
11. Save money and get truly involved with your garden by starting seeds indoors in winter and transplanting them into the garden in spring. It's simplest to start with complete kits, sold at garden centers and through catalogs, containing fluorescent lights, soil mix, containers and watering devices.
12. Sow seeds of colorful radishes or giant sunflowers to introduce children to the satisfaction and fun of growing their own food. Or lean 3 stakes together, tie them together at the top, and train pole beans up the stakes. Voila`! A bean teepee.
Avoiding Weeds In Your Vegetable Garden
No one likes to weed a garden. Fortunately, there are several things that can help prevent weeds in the first place, so you won't have to deal with them once the garden is planted (or at least, not nearly as many of them).
1. Before you plant, clear the ground and put some extra time into clearing the soil of any perennial weeds. Make sure you get as much of the root as possible - not just the part that's visible - so the weeds won’t grow back.
2. Don't disturb the soil during routine care. Cultivating the soil in your garden can bring weed seeds up to the surface where they can sprout. Try to keep the soil disturbance to a minimum when maintaining your garden throughout the growing season.
3. Crop rotation. Some crops are more capable of fighting weeds than others. For example, potatoes can crowd out the weeds a lot more easily than onions. By rotating your crops around your garden from one year to the next, it's less likely that weeds will build up in one part of it.
4. Mulch. Cover bare soil with mulch to keep weeds from getting the light they need to grow. This can be organic mulch, such as rotted compost, or inorganic mulch such as landscape cloth. Organic mulch is easier to spread between the vegetables you have planted. It should be one to three inches deep to suppress weeds.
Growing Vegetables In Small Spaces or Container
While a huge garden with almost limitless space is a dream for most gardeners, the reality is we usually only have a fraction of what we would like. Some of us might even be limited to a few small planters on a porch or balcony. Don't let that discourage you though. It just means you need to plan a little differently.
You'll want to grow vegetables that are high yielding. For example, a single zucchini planted in a container could produce a dozen or more fruit over the course of the summer, where the same container planted with spinach might only produce enough for a single serving (or less).
Vegetables that thrive when planted in containers include: tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, carrots, chard, lettuce, beans, peas, and cucumbers.
How To Have A Constant Supply Of Vegetables
Have you ever found yourself with way too much of a vegetable when the time comes that it's ready to harvest? The problem is the way most people plant their garden - a row of one vegetable, another row of a second one and so on.
The more effective way to plant that will give you a steady supply of vegetables over a longer season is called succession planting. Basically, instead of a single row of each vegetable split a single row into multiple vegetables. So one row might have 3 or 4 sections, each with its own seeds planted.
Then two weeks later, plant the same group in the second row. Two weeks later, do it again in the third row.
This way, each row will be ready to harvest two weeks after the previous one, giving you a fresh supply for longer, and keeping you from having to find ways to get rid of all the extras.
Garden Planning 101
The size of your garden will depend on several things:
* How many mouths you're feeding
* How much time you have to spend in it
* How enthusiastic you are about gardening
Keep in mind that you shouldn't be too ambitious, especially if you're new to vegetable gardening. A garden that's too big quickly become a chore rather than a fun hobby.
Unless your yard requires it, it's best to avoid flowing, unusual shapes. Stick with squares or rectangle as they allow for more efficient use of space. Plus, they tend to make it easier to reach everything in the garden for maintenance and harvesting once your vegetables get larger.
When you're planning your vegetable garden, one of the things to consider is what's on the ground where you want to plant? If it's bare soil, you're halfway there, but it's more likely lawn if you haven't planted a garden before. If you need to get rid of grass for your garden, it's not a difficult thing to do, just use a sharp spade to undercut the sod and remove it.
Trees or shrubs are another story - they can be a lot more difficult to relocate or even to simply remove if you no longer want them. The roots can be far-reaching as well and may interfere with your garden when it comes time to start digging.
When you're planning the location for your garden, think about how much time and effort you want to put in. If your ideal spot is going to take too much time or work, you might want to think about an alternative.
Preparing the soil
Fertile, well drained soil is necessary for a successful garden. The exact type of soil is not so important as that it be well drained, well supplied with organic matter, reasonably free of stones, and moisture retentive. The subsoil also is very important. Hard shale, rock ledges, gravel beds, deep sand, or hardpan under the surface may make the development of garden soil extremely difficult or impossible. On the other hand, infertile soil that has good physical properties can be made productive by using organic matter, lime, commercial fertilizer, and other soil improving materials.
If your garden has already been cultivated and used in past years, there is little to do other than to plow in additional organic material, and fertilizers. The fertilizer may be in the form of composted manure or any good commercial complete plant food distributed at a rate of 3 or 4 pounds for every thousand square feet of vegetable garden. Infertile soil will often benefit from even larger proportions of chemical fertilization, but care must be taken not to add too much because of the danger of fertilizer burn. When manure is added to the soil, it must be composted prior to planting, because fresh, hot manure will also burn your plants.
As Your Garden Grows:
During dry periods, vegetable gardens need extra watering. Most vegetables benefit from an inch or more water each week, especially when they are fruiting.
If possible, use a drip hose or drip system for watering. With a drip system, you don’t loose any water to evaporation. It also encourages less rot or blight on tomatoes and other vegetables.
Mulching between the rows will help to control weeds, conserve moisture in the soil, and provide you with pathways to access your plants. Black plastic may be used, or you can utilize grass clippings, straw, wood chips, or garden debris.
Throughout the growing season be vigilante against insect pests. Discovering a bug problem early will make it much easier to take appropriate action and eliminate the pests. Do not use pesticides once the plants have fruited unless it becomes an absolute necessity, and be sure to follow the manufacturers recommendations.
Weeds rob your vegetables of water, light and root space. Keep them pulled out regularly (try to get the entire root) and the job isn't too bad. If they are allowed to go to seed, you may be dealing with thousands of weeds instead of a few. Once you have harvested your crop, put the spent plant and other vegetable matter into your compost pile so that it can be recycled into your garden again, next spring.
Resources:
The KSL Greenhouse with Tim Hughes and Larry Sagers
airs each Saturday morning from 8 am - 11 am.
Check KSL Classifieds and Craigslist for plant exchanges or giveaways.
www.larrysagers.com/articles.html
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/pub__8066784.pdf
www.veggiegardeningtips.com
http://gardening.about.com/
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/kitchen/
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/utgard/ (Utah info)
www.gardenguides.com/how-to/tipstechniques/vegetables/
www.gardenersnet.com
www.squarefootgardening.com
http://www.wasatchgardens.org/Library/
www.parkseed.com or www.burpee.com
www.heirloomseeds.com
www.waysidegardens.com
www.jacksonandperkins.com
www.gardeners.com
www.garden.com
How To Square Foot Garden
It's easy to get started with your own square foot garden at home. As easy as 1, 2, 3 and you'll be harvesting in no time!
1. Pick the location. Location Matters!
* Pick an area that gets 6-8 hours of sunshine daily.
* Stay clear of trees and shrubs where roots and shade may interfere.
* Have it close to the house for convenience.
* Existing soil is not really important, since you won't be using it.
* Area should not puddle after a heavy rain.
2. Follow The Ten Basics
1. LAYOUT - Arrange your garden in squares, not rows. Lay it out in 4'x4' planting areas.
2. BOXES - Build boxes to hold a new soil mix above ground.
3. AISLES - Space boxes 3' apart to form walking aisles.
4. SOIL - Fill boxes with special soil mix: 1/3 blended compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 coarse vermiculite.
5. GRID - Make a permanent square foot grid for the top of each box. A MUST!
6. CARE - NEVER WALK ON YOUR GROWING SOIL. Tend your garden from the aisles.
7. SELECT - Plant a different flower, vegetable, or herb crop in each square foot, using 1, 4, 9, or 16 plants per square foot.
8. PLANT - Conserve seeds. Plant only a pinch (2 or 3 seeds) per hole. Place transplants in a slight saucer-shaped depression.
9. WATER - Water by hand from a bucket of sun-warmed water.
10. HARVEST - When you finish harvesting a square foot, add compost and replant it with a new and different crop.
MORE DETAILS ABOUT THE 10 BASICS OF SFG:
LAYOUT: Always think in squares: lay out 4 foot by 4 foot planting areas with wide walkways between them.
BOXES: 4x4 Foot Garden -- Build garden box frames no wider than 4 feet, and 6 to 8 inches deep. The length is not as important, but a recommended size for your first time is one frame 4 foot by 4 foot. You can, of course, go smaller. A 2 foot by 2 foot works great on patios and 3 foot by 3 foot box is ideal for kids. Frames can be made from almost any material except treated wood, which has toxic chemicals that might leach into the soil. 1 by 6 or 2 by 6 lumber is ideal, and comes in 8-foot lengths. Most lumber yards will cut it in half at little or no cost. Exact dimensions are not critical. Deck screws work best to fasten the boards together. Rotate or alternate corners to end up with a square inside.
AISLES: If you plan to have more than one garden box, separate them by 2 or 3 feet to form walkways.
SOIL: Fill frame with a mixture of 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 coarse vermiculite (no dirt needed). A blended compost made from many ingredients provides all the nutrients the plants require (no chemical fertilizers needed). Peat moss and vermiculite help hold moisture and keep the soil loose. It's best to make your own compost from many ingredients but if you have to buy it, make sure it is truly compost. Some stores sell mulch or humus and other ground covers but call it compost. Most commercial compost is made from one or two ingredients so to be safe, don't buy all of one kind but one of each kind until you have enough for your garden. It's really best to make your own compost, then you know what goes in it. When buying vermiculite, be sure to get the coarse grade, and get the more economical 4 cubic foot size bags. If placing frames over grass you can dig out the grass or cover it with cardboard or landscape cloth to discourage grass and weeds from coming up through your new garden soil.
GRID: On top of each frame place a permanent grid that divides the box into one foot squares. The grid is the unique feature that makes the whole system work so well. To show you why the grid is so important, do this little demonstration: Look at your 4 foot by 4 foot box with the grid on and imagine up to 16 different crops. What you see before you is a neat and attractive, well organized garden, that will be easy to manage. Now remove the grid. Could you organize and manage this space without dividing it up into squares? Besides, without the grid you will be tempted to plant in rows, which is a poor use of space. Grids can be made from nearly any material; wood, plastic strips, old venetian blinds, etc. Use screws or rivets to attach them where they cross. On a 4 foot by 4 foot frame, the grid divides the frame into 16 easy-to-manage spaces, for up to 16 different crops. Leave the grid in place all season. The grid can be cut long enough to fit across the top of the box or cut shorter to lay on the soil inside the box.
CARE: Since you will NEVER walk on or depress the growing soil, don't make the frames any wider than 4 feet (2 feet, if only one side is accessible). Any wider makes it too difficult to reach in to tend the plants.
SELECT: Depending on the mature size of the plant, grow 1, 4, 9, or 16 equally spaced plants per square foot. If the seed packet recommends plant spacing be 12 inches apart, plant one plant per square foot. If 6 inch spacing; 4 per square foot. If 4 inch spacing; 9 per square foot. If 3 inch spacing; 16 per square foot.
PLANT: Plant one or two seeds in each spot by making a shallow hole with your finger. Cover, but do not pack the soil. Thinning is all but eliminated. Seeds are not wasted. Extra seeds can be stored cool and dry in your refrigerator. Don't over-plant. Plant only as much of any one crop as you will use. This 4 foot by 4 foot box will grow more than a conventional garden that is 8 foot by 10 foot.
WATER: Water only as much as each plant needs. Water often, especially at first, and on very hot dry days, If possible, water by hand ( uses a lot less water ) with a cup from a sun-warmed bucket of water. Warm water helps the soil warm up in early and late season.
HARVEST: Harvest continually and when a crop in one square is gone, add some new compost and plant a new different crop in that square.
Tips from the experts:
Diane and Dare Allen:
If you want a successful garden, put most of your effort into creating excellent soil.
Best way to water your garden is with a drip system.
Favorite nursery: Willard Bay Nursery - 7095 S Highway 89, Willard, UT 84340 www.willardbaygardens.com/
If you expect to loose 20% of your crops every year and you’ll be happy with your garden
Marion Searle:
The KSL program “Greenhouse” with Tim Hughes and Larry Sagers that airs each Saturday morning from 8am to 11am is a wonderful way to learn about gardening.
Another great source of information is Larry Sagers. www.larrysagers.com
Mini Hicks:
Grow what you know your family will eat
Figure out what grows well in your yard. Mini can’t grow beet in her yard but her daughter-in-law, Karen, can.
Trial and error is inevitable. That is how you learn what grows best in your garden
Mini plants her peas mid-March, no matter what the weather. She just pokes the ground with a pencil and plants the seeds.
Share the bounty!
Heidi Bethers:
Heidi likes raised box beds that are long and thin. This way you can access all plants without having to step into the bed. SHe has included a list of her favorite gardening websites at the end of this email.
Joyce and Julie Miller:
Don't grow tomatoes on a hill.
Don't grow pumpkins next to squash or zucchini. You won't get any zucchini and the pumpkins will be small.
Favorite Nurseries:
Tri-City Nursery in Kaysville.
Cook's Greenhouse Nursery in Orem.
If you like seeds, you really need to see Granite Seed Company's website. They're in Lehi.
Wasatch Shadows in Sandy.
Linden Nursery in Lindon .
Alpine Gardens in Brigham (Perry actually)
Willard Bay Gardens is the best place in the state for perennials. It’s in Box Elder County.
Millcreek Gardens on 9th at about 35th south.
J & J Nursery in Layton (Best tomato plants!)
High Country Gardens. They have a good selection of plants that are water-wise.
There is a lady in Brigham (Edna Secrist) that has the very cheapest prices for a somewhat limited selection of perennials. She sells out of her yard. Price is $3 for well established gallon plants. Some are as high as $4. She propagates her own and they have all gone through one Utah winter. Drive east on 600 south in Brigham. Her home is on the south side of the street several blocks up. After mid-April when she gets the pots out of her greenhouse you can't miss it.
Empire Gardens (Wholesale & retail, easiest way to find it is to head north on 700 East and around 3600 South look for a tiny street marked "Empire" on your right.) Bring a checkbook & look for Ruth. Knock on the door if you can't find anyone. Great for gallon pots of drought resistant perennials, shrubs, trees. Family relationship with Millcreek Gardens.
Cactus & Tropicals (corner of 2000 E & 2700 S)
Farmers Market (8am Saturday at Pioneer Park) Consider the lilies near Borski Farms & Caputo's on north side of market, heading east. Empire Gardens has a sampling of plants further west on that north side walkway.
Vineyard Nursery just west of Orem off Geneva Road. Not fancy but their prices are about 25% less than everywhere and it feels really homey
Helpful Gardening Websites
Gardening online is one of the best tools a gardener has. We now have access to current research, new plant introductions and wonderful photographs to help us identify all kinds of disgusting plant pests and disease problems. Here are some sites that are truly helpful:
1. The Plants Database at Dave's Garden.com
Dave's site is a gardener friendly destination. The plant database is billed as the largest in the world, "...with 86,188 entries, 58,365 images and 33,503 comments." You can search by name or plant characteristics or just browse through the pictures. Searches are limited if you are not a registered member, but membership is free. davesgarden.com
2. Fine Gardening Magazine's Guide to Pronouncing Botanical Latin
Now this is fun. If you've ever wondered how to pronounce some of those tongue twisters, like maybe agastache foeniculum, you can hear it here. Fine Gardening always includes a phonetic list of the plants mentioned in their magazine, but nothing beats hearing it pronounced. taunton.com
3. Cyndi's Catalog of Garden Catalogs
Contacts and critiques of more than 2,000 catalogs from around the world. Is there a better service that could be provided to an avid gardener? gardenlist.com
4. Cooperative Extension Systems
Every state has a Cooperative Extension System. Regional offices offer location specific advice on a broad array of topics, including gardening. Most have gardening hotlines and offer informational fact sheets, soil testing and pest identification for free or a nominal cost. Often the help is provided by Master Gardeners who are trained to assist the agriculture agents with home gardener's needs. You might even want to check out the requirements for becoming a Master Gardener yourself. extension.usu.edu - or pick another state (VA has a great site)
5. Insect Identification Laboratory, Dept. of Entomology, VA Tech
You may have to do some digging around , but this content rich site provides excellent insect images, including household pests and those that attack ornamentals and edibles. It also goes into control measures and pesticide info. Much of the information is broken down by type of problem, such as Insects that feed on leaves or bore into wood. everest.ento.vt.edu
6. Vegetable MD Online
There is nothing like a picture when you are trying to identify what's wrong with your plants. Unlike ornamentals that all seem to share the same fungal disease problems, vegetables can exhibit an abundance of symptoms. That's why Cornell's Vegetable MD Online is so popular. There's a photo gallery for identifying the problem, fact sheets for solving it and IPM links to keep it from happening again. vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/Home.htm
7. Extoxnet - Pesticide Information Profiles
Extoxnet (EXtension TOXicology NETwork) is the joint venture of a handful of land-grant universities across the U.S. They provide Pesticide Information Profiles (PIPs) which give specific information on a pesticide's health and environmental effects. Be sure to follow label instructions when using any pesticide. extoxnet.orst.edu
8. The U.S. National Arboretum - Invasive Plants
Whether its' kudzu, garlic mustard or purple loosetrife, the best way to deal with an invasive plant is to keep it out of your garden. Here the experts give you tips on dealing with enthusiastic unwelcome garden guests. There are links to each state's Invasive Plant Council, with lists and photos of plants to be on the lookout for. usna.usda.gov/Gardens/invasives.html
9. Cornell University Poisonous Plants Informational Database
A lot of misinformation about which plants are poisonous has found its way into "common knowledge". Here you can search for information on particular plants, like your Christmas Poinsettia, or find out what plants to avoid to keep you, your kids, your pets and even your livestock safe. ansci.cornell.edu/plants/
10. About.com Gardening Forum
What is so great about this forum is how knowledgeable the participants are and the wide geographic distribution of their experience. If you're the type who likes to chat with other gardeners (and you're constantly censored by other forums for it) you'll also find some good conversation here.
Reprinted from About.com’s website
Try also:
bbc.co.uk/gardening/ -- has a great online gardening diary and other great tips and garden ideas, plant lists and pest lists
larrysagers.com -- local gardening radio host with lots of local gardening information. Check out the Gardening Articles section for great advice on many topics.
Also go to KSL.com Follow links to radio, Saturday lineup, and greenhouse show for more local gardening tips.
HAPPY SURFING! Call Heidi Bethers 801-273-0030 if you have a favorite site to recommend.
3.25.2009
Excellent Garden Books - FREE - check out at the Library!
1.
A backyard vegetable garden for kids
by Leavitt, Amie Jane.
Hockessin, Del. : Mitchell Lane Publishers, c2009.
Call Number:
J635 Lea
2.
Miracle-Gro complete guide to vegetables, fruits & herbs
by Meredith Books.
Des Moines, Iowa : Meredith Books, 2008.
Call Number:
635 Mir
3.
CHEF'S GARDEN
by Conran, Terence., Clevely, A. M., 1945-
London : Conran Octupus ; New York, NY : Distributed in the U.S. by Sterling, 2008, c1999.
4.
Grow it, cook it
by Lock, Deborah., Parrish, Margaret., Bloomfield, Jill., DK Publishing, Inc.
New York, N.Y. : DK Pub., 2008.
Call Number:
J635 Gro
5.
How to grow beans, peas, asparagus, artichokes and other shoots : growing legumes and edible shoots, including celery, celeriac, globe artichokes and seakale, with 180 photographs
by Bird, Richard, 1942-
London : Southwater, c2008.
Call Number:
635 Bir
6.
How to grow tomatoes : a practical gardening guide for great results, with step-by-step techniques and 175 photographs.
by Bird, Richard., Bird, Richard
London : Southwater Pub, c2008.
Call Number:
635.642 Bir
7.
Grow vegetables
by Buckingham, Alan., Whittingham, Jo.
New York, NY : DK Pub., c2008.
Call Number:
635 Buc
8.
The veggie gardener's answer book : solutions to every problem you'll ever face : answers to every question you'll ever ask
by Ellis, Barbara W.
North Adams, MA : Storey Pub., c2008.
Call Number:
635 Ell
9.
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO GROWING VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND HERBS
by Bird, Richard, 1942-
London : Southwater ; [Lanham, Md.] : North American agent/distributor, National Book Network, c2007.
10.
Buried treasures : tasty tubers of the world : how to grow and enjoy root vegetables, tubers, rhizomes, and corms
by Hanson, Beth., Brooklyn Botanic Garden.
Brooklyn, NY : Brooklyn Botanic Garden, c2007.
Call Number:
635.1 Bur
11.
Perennial vegetables : from artichoke to zuiki taro, a gardener's guide to over 100 delicious, easy-to-grow edibles
by Toensmeier, Eric.
White River Junction, Vt. : Chelsea Green Pub., c2007.
Call Number:
635 Toe
12.
Vegetable gardening
by Whittingham, Jo., Royal Horticultural Society (Great Britain)
New York, N.Y. : DK Pub., 2007.
Call Number:
635 Whi
13.
101 GROW TO EAT IDEAS
by Thomas, Ceri.
[London] : BBC Books, c2007.
14.
Growing vegetables & fruit around the year : a calender of monthly tasks for the kitchen garden, with over 300 photographs and 80 step-by-step techniques
by Edwards, Jonathan, 1959-, McHoy, Peter.
London : Southwater ; Lanham, MD : NOrth American agent/distributor, National Book Network, c2006.
Call Number:
635
A backyard vegetable garden for kids
by Leavitt, Amie Jane.
Hockessin, Del. : Mitchell Lane Publishers, c2009.
Call Number:
J635 Lea
2.
Miracle-Gro complete guide to vegetables, fruits & herbs
by Meredith Books.
Des Moines, Iowa : Meredith Books, 2008.
Call Number:
635 Mir
3.
CHEF'S GARDEN
by Conran, Terence., Clevely, A. M., 1945-
London : Conran Octupus ; New York, NY : Distributed in the U.S. by Sterling, 2008, c1999.
4.
Grow it, cook it
by Lock, Deborah., Parrish, Margaret., Bloomfield, Jill., DK Publishing, Inc.
New York, N.Y. : DK Pub., 2008.
Call Number:
J635 Gro
5.
How to grow beans, peas, asparagus, artichokes and other shoots : growing legumes and edible shoots, including celery, celeriac, globe artichokes and seakale, with 180 photographs
by Bird, Richard, 1942-
London : Southwater, c2008.
Call Number:
635 Bir
6.
How to grow tomatoes : a practical gardening guide for great results, with step-by-step techniques and 175 photographs.
by Bird, Richard., Bird, Richard
London : Southwater Pub, c2008.
Call Number:
635.642 Bir
7.
Grow vegetables
by Buckingham, Alan., Whittingham, Jo.
New York, NY : DK Pub., c2008.
Call Number:
635 Buc
8.
The veggie gardener's answer book : solutions to every problem you'll ever face : answers to every question you'll ever ask
by Ellis, Barbara W.
North Adams, MA : Storey Pub., c2008.
Call Number:
635 Ell
9.
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO GROWING VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND HERBS
by Bird, Richard, 1942-
London : Southwater ; [Lanham, Md.] : North American agent/distributor, National Book Network, c2007.
10.
Buried treasures : tasty tubers of the world : how to grow and enjoy root vegetables, tubers, rhizomes, and corms
by Hanson, Beth., Brooklyn Botanic Garden.
Brooklyn, NY : Brooklyn Botanic Garden, c2007.
Call Number:
635.1 Bur
11.
Perennial vegetables : from artichoke to zuiki taro, a gardener's guide to over 100 delicious, easy-to-grow edibles
by Toensmeier, Eric.
White River Junction, Vt. : Chelsea Green Pub., c2007.
Call Number:
635 Toe
12.
Vegetable gardening
by Whittingham, Jo., Royal Horticultural Society (Great Britain)
New York, N.Y. : DK Pub., 2007.
Call Number:
635 Whi
13.
101 GROW TO EAT IDEAS
by Thomas, Ceri.
[London] : BBC Books, c2007.
14.
Growing vegetables & fruit around the year : a calender of monthly tasks for the kitchen garden, with over 300 photographs and 80 step-by-step techniques
by Edwards, Jonathan, 1959-, McHoy, Peter.
London : Southwater ; Lanham, MD : NOrth American agent/distributor, National Book Network, c2006.
Call Number:
635
Preserving Your Garden Produce - here are some great resources
How to store your garden produce : the key to self-sufficiency
by Warren, Piers.
Totnes, Devon : Green Books, 2008.
Call Number:
641.4 War
2.
Complete book of home preserving : 400 delicious and creative recipes for today
by Kingry, Judi., Devine, Lauren., Ball Corporation.
Toronto : Robert Rose, c2006.
Call Number:
641.42 Com
3.
Preserving nature's bounty
by Bissell, Frances.
New York : Sterling Pub., 2006.
Call Number:
641.42 Bis
4.
How to store your garden produce : the key to self-sufficiency
by Warren, Piers., Winn, Chris.
Devon, U.K. : Green Books, 2003.
Call Number:
641.452 War
5.
Preserving fruits & vegetables
by Costenbader, Carol W.
Pownal, Vt : Storey Publ., 1996.
Call Number:
641.4 Cos
6.
Preserving summer's bounty : a quick and easy guide to freezing, canning, preserving, and drying what you grow
by McClure, Susan, 1957-, Rodale Food Center.
Emmaus, Pa. : Rodale Press ; [New York] : Distributed in the book trade by St. Martin's Press, c1995.
Call Number:
641.4 Pre
7.
Keeping the harvest : preserving your fruits, vegetables & herbs
by Chioffi, Nancy, 1942-, Mead, Gretchen., Thompson, Linda M.
Pownal, Vt. : Storey Communications, 1991.
Call Number:
641.4
by Warren, Piers.
Totnes, Devon : Green Books, 2008.
Call Number:
641.4 War
2.
Complete book of home preserving : 400 delicious and creative recipes for today
by Kingry, Judi., Devine, Lauren., Ball Corporation.
Toronto : Robert Rose, c2006.
Call Number:
641.42 Com
3.
Preserving nature's bounty
by Bissell, Frances.
New York : Sterling Pub., 2006.
Call Number:
641.42 Bis
4.
How to store your garden produce : the key to self-sufficiency
by Warren, Piers., Winn, Chris.
Devon, U.K. : Green Books, 2003.
Call Number:
641.452 War
5.
Preserving fruits & vegetables
by Costenbader, Carol W.
Pownal, Vt : Storey Publ., 1996.
Call Number:
641.4 Cos
6.
Preserving summer's bounty : a quick and easy guide to freezing, canning, preserving, and drying what you grow
by McClure, Susan, 1957-, Rodale Food Center.
Emmaus, Pa. : Rodale Press ; [New York] : Distributed in the book trade by St. Martin's Press, c1995.
Call Number:
641.4 Pre
7.
Keeping the harvest : preserving your fruits, vegetables & herbs
by Chioffi, Nancy, 1942-, Mead, Gretchen., Thompson, Linda M.
Pownal, Vt. : Storey Communications, 1991.
Call Number:
641.4
3.23.2009
News for Week of March 23 - 28, 2009
Wednesday, April 22, Earth Day. We have been asked to participate in a booth/activity at the U of U and will need some help. Details are coming soon.
We have dropped the Heart of Holladay Garden Property since there were too many issues and changes to deal with i.e. rules, regulations, too many chiefs, etc.
We have acquired another garden property: Naniloa Garden. It is owned by my good friends Vicki and Brian Smoot. Besides all the delicious veggies we'll grow there, they also have plenty of grape vines AND apple, apricot, plum and peach trees near our garden that we'll receive.
Salt Lake Tribune Newspaper is planning to do a story on our Garden Group. I am currently a member of the SL Tribune "Money Matters" Panel (helping people save money on food). I've been telling my editor/writer friend about our group. She's excited to learn more about our group. I'll keep you posted.
FYI- Dutch Oven Dinner and Campfire, Wed. March 25, 6 - 8 pm. My backyard, $7/person. Chuck Wagon Dinner (BBQ Chicken, Mashed Potatoes, Tossed Dark Green Salad, Texas Bread, Peach Raspberry Cream Cheese Cobbler w/ Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream). This is a GREAT deal for $7!! RSVP. Only a few openings left.
FYI- Intro to Flat Water Kayaking, Thursday, March 26, $12/person, 2 classes to choose from: 6 - 7:30 OR 7:45 - 9:15. Class is held in a beautiful, heated indoor swimming pool near my home. RSVP soon. Only a few openings left.
We have dropped the Heart of Holladay Garden Property since there were too many issues and changes to deal with i.e. rules, regulations, too many chiefs, etc.
We have acquired another garden property: Naniloa Garden. It is owned by my good friends Vicki and Brian Smoot. Besides all the delicious veggies we'll grow there, they also have plenty of grape vines AND apple, apricot, plum and peach trees near our garden that we'll receive.
Salt Lake Tribune Newspaper is planning to do a story on our Garden Group. I am currently a member of the SL Tribune "Money Matters" Panel (helping people save money on food). I've been telling my editor/writer friend about our group. She's excited to learn more about our group. I'll keep you posted.
FYI- Dutch Oven Dinner and Campfire, Wed. March 25, 6 - 8 pm. My backyard, $7/person. Chuck Wagon Dinner (BBQ Chicken, Mashed Potatoes, Tossed Dark Green Salad, Texas Bread, Peach Raspberry Cream Cheese Cobbler w/ Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream). This is a GREAT deal for $7!! RSVP. Only a few openings left.
FYI- Intro to Flat Water Kayaking, Thursday, March 26, $12/person, 2 classes to choose from: 6 - 7:30 OR 7:45 - 9:15. Class is held in a beautiful, heated indoor swimming pool near my home. RSVP soon. Only a few openings left.
Two of the Six Garden Properties are nearly ready for planting!
Get acquainted with our six garden properties!
1) Salsa Garden - my backyard, it will have other plants growing as well but is will be known for the tomatoes and peppers we put in there. We also have over 500 sq. feet of Vertical Garden Space in my backyard also. We'll be growing our "vertical" plants i.e. pole beans, peas, cucumbers, grapes, etc. in that space.
2) Corn Patch Garden - It is one of our largest garden spaces, located just 6 houses up the street from my home. Besides growing corn, we'll put several other delicious veggies in that area as well. This property also comes with 2 apple trees and a long area of grape vines along the fence.
3) Horse Pasture Garden - We haven't started working in this area yet but this long narrow garden space will be great for a variety of fruits and veggies for us.
4) Naniloa Garden - Our newly acquired garden space as of March 21. It replaced the Heart of Holladay Garden area. On this garden property we now have access to plums, peaches, apricots, apple and grapes. This sunny garden will be home to a variety of plants as well.
5) Garden on the Hill - We'll hand till this area this week and start planting soon. It won't take long to get this garden space ready to go for planting.
6) Waterfall Garden - A few "Square Gardens" will go onto this beautiful property.
1) Salsa Garden - my backyard, it will have other plants growing as well but is will be known for the tomatoes and peppers we put in there. We also have over 500 sq. feet of Vertical Garden Space in my backyard also. We'll be growing our "vertical" plants i.e. pole beans, peas, cucumbers, grapes, etc. in that space.
2) Corn Patch Garden - It is one of our largest garden spaces, located just 6 houses up the street from my home. Besides growing corn, we'll put several other delicious veggies in that area as well. This property also comes with 2 apple trees and a long area of grape vines along the fence.
3) Horse Pasture Garden - We haven't started working in this area yet but this long narrow garden space will be great for a variety of fruits and veggies for us.
4) Naniloa Garden - Our newly acquired garden space as of March 21. It replaced the Heart of Holladay Garden area. On this garden property we now have access to plums, peaches, apricots, apple and grapes. This sunny garden will be home to a variety of plants as well.
5) Garden on the Hill - We'll hand till this area this week and start planting soon. It won't take long to get this garden space ready to go for planting.
6) Waterfall Garden - A few "Square Gardens" will go onto this beautiful property.
During the week of March 23 - March 28, we'll be planting Peas, Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach
Peas - can be planted as soon as the soil can be worked, until May 1, planting them every 2 weeks. They should be planted 1" deep, 1-2" apart, in rows 12-24" apart.
Lettuce-
Plant 1/4-1/2" deep, rows 12-18" apart, final spacing of plants 8-12" apart. Plant in 2 week intervals.
Radishes-
Plant seeds 1/2-1" deep, rows 10-12" apart, thin plants to 1-2" apart. Plant in 10 day intervals. Plant again in early September for fall harvest.
Spinach-
Plant seeds 1/2-1" deep, rows 12" apart, thin plants to 3" apart. Plant in 2 week intervals.
Lettuce-
Plant 1/4-1/2" deep, rows 12-18" apart, final spacing of plants 8-12" apart. Plant in 2 week intervals.
Radishes-
Plant seeds 1/2-1" deep, rows 10-12" apart, thin plants to 1-2" apart. Plant in 10 day intervals. Plant again in early September for fall harvest.
Spinach-
Plant seeds 1/2-1" deep, rows 12" apart, thin plants to 3" apart. Plant in 2 week intervals.
3.22.2009
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxBeans in the Garden
By Dan Drost
Summary
All beans require full sun and fertile, well drained soil for maximum yield. Incorporate plenty of organic matter and a complete fertilizer into the soil before planting. When soils are above 60ºF, space rows 18-24 inches apart and plant
seeds 1 inch deep and 2-3 inches apart in the row. Plant beans every 14-21 days until mid-July for a continuous crop throughout the growing season. Beans require regular watering particularly at flowering, so maintain soils near field capacity.
Water stress will reduce yields and pod quality. Organic mulches help conserve water, supply extra nutrients and reduce the need for weeding. Control insect and
diseases if they occur. Harvest when pods are plump and full but before seeds develop. For dry beans delay harvest until pods are yellow and dry. Use fresh beans immediately for best quality.
Recommended Varieties
There are many good bean varieties for sale in local gardening outlets and through seed catalogs.
Most grow well in Utah. Pod shape, size, and color vary among varieties. Here is a list of some potential varieties and plant types that have performed well in Utah.
Bean Types Suggested Varieties
Bush Beans Blue Lake, Greencrop, Gold Crop, Kinghorn Wax, Royal Burgundy, Slenderette, Strike, Tendercrop
Pole Beans Blue Lake types, Kentucky Wonder, Romano
Dry Beans Kidney, Great Northern, Pinto, Blackbean, Blackeye Pea
How to Grow
Soil: Beans will grow in all soil types provided they are rich in organic matter, well drained, and fertile.
Soil Preparation: Before planting, incorporate 2-3 inches of well composted organic matter and 1 lb of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per 100 square feet of garden area. Work compost and fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches.
Plants: Beans are warm weather vegetables that require soil and air temperatures above 60ºF for best germination and plant growth. Start planting beans one week before the last frost-free date for your area. Seedlings will emerge in 7-10 days when planted in soil that has warmed to 65-85ºF.
Planting and Spacing: To plant 100 feet of row, you will need about 3-4 ounces of seed. Extra seed can be stored and used the next year. Plant seeds 1 inch deep, spaced 2-3 inches apart, in rows 18-24 inches wide. No thinning is necessary if plant stands are too thick. Plant bush beans every 14-21 days until mid-July for continuous production throughout the growing season. Bush beans require 50-60 days to
mature depending on variety. Pole beans generally produce pods over a very long time period so one or two plantings are necessary each year. Dry beans planted after July 1 generally will not mature in cooler areas of Utah but will produce mature seeds in the warmer regions of Southern Utah. Mulching the crop during the
summer will reduce soil water loss and increase nutrient availability.
Support: Most bean varieties are bush plants that do not need support during growth. Pole beans are climbing types that flower over long time periods thus yielding more when trellised. Trellises also make harvest easier. Wooden poles or other fencing materials make ideal supports for beans. Plants climb naturally so little additional work is required other than construction of the supports.
Water: Beans require regular watering throughout growth for best production. Soil moisture levels should be maintained near field capacity. Do not overwater as wet soils promote root rot diseases and slow plant growth. Water needs are most critical during flowering and pod sizing. Drought stress during and after flowering will decrease yield due to flower abortion and reduce pod size and increase stringiness.
For dry beans, reduce water applications as the seeds begin to mature. Watering amounts depend on soil type and organic matter content.
Fertilization: Beans do not require additional fertilizer if an all-purpose fertilizer and compost was applied at planting. Additional applications of nitrogen will over-stimulate leaf growth, delay flowering and reduce pod set. Most beans fix some nitrogen from the air via soil bacteria attached to the plant roots.
Mulches and Row Covers: Plastic mulches can help conserve water, provide some frost
protection, and allow earlier planting and maturity. Fabric row covers also protect young plants from frosts. When using plastics and row covers, plant 2-3 weeks before the last frost date for your area. Apply organic mulches such as grass clippings, straw, and shredded newspaper in the heat of summer to help control weeds, improve soil water holding capacity, and increase nutrient availability.
Pest Control
Weeds: Control weeds with regular cultivation, especially when plants are small. Avoid root damage that slows plant growth. Closer row spacing and dense growth help reduce weed pressure.
Insects and Diseases: Most mustard is fast growing and is not susceptible to many production problems. Rotating locations from year to year helps control most diseases.
Insect Identification Control
Mexican Bean Beetle and Leaf Beetle
These beetles are round, copper or tan colored with black spots on their wings. Beetles look like lady beetles. Larvae feed on roots, leaves, and pods doing the most damage when plants are small. Look for yellow eggs under leaves. Dust small plants with appropriate insecticides. Large, flowering plants can withstand feeding pressure with minimal loss in production. Leafhoppers: Small green wedge-shaped sucking insects that feed on leaf juices. Leaves curl and dry out.
Difficult to control as insects are very mobile.
Cutworms and Army Worms
These green, reddish, or black caterpillars grow up
to 2 inches long. Army worms will climb the plants
and feed on leaves and stems. Cutworms do most
of their feeding near the soil surface.
Control weeds and debris in the garden
that provide cover for the worms. Use
appropriate insecticides if populations are
high.
Disease Symptoms Control
Bean Blight: Small water soaked spots that enlarge and form
large lesion on stems, leaves, and pods.
Damp conditions favor this disease. Water
carefully and allow soil to dry between
irrigations.
Root Rot and Damping Off: Seedlings darken, wilt and die. Associated with
cool, wet conditions in the spring.
Use treated seed. Allow soils to dry
before re-watering.
Harvest and Storage
Bush and pole beans are harvested before the pods are fully mature. Pods should be full size, with small seeds, and firm, crisp flesh when picked. Pods are ready for harvest about 7-14 days after flowering. Pick regularly as the plant will flower and mature the pods for 2-3 weeks on bush varieties and for 5-6 weeks on pole types.
Harvest and use immediately for best quality and flavor. Refrigerate if not used
immediately. Dry beans are harvested when the pods are fully mature and they are beginning to dry. Pull up the plants and lay in a row in the garden for 5-7 days. Once plants are dry, remove the pods, shell out the seeds and allow some additional time for the seeds to dry further. For long term storage, keep in sealed containers in a cool dry place.
Productivity
Expect 75 lbs per 100 feet of row from bush types and 125 lbs from pole types. Plant 5-15 feet of row per person for fresh use and an additional 10-20 feet of row per person for canning or freezing. With dry beans expect about 20-25 lbs of seed per 100 feet of row.
Nutrition
Fresh bean pods are high in fiber, low in calories, and a good source of vitamin C. Dry bean seeds are excellent sources of protein, phosphorus, iron, vitamin B1, fiber, and have very low levels of cholesterol.
Frequently Asked Questions
I sometimes have problems getting my beans to emerge in the garden.
Beans generally germinate and emerge well regardless of garden conditions. If you plant when soils are below 60ºF, germination is greatly reduced. In heavy clay soils, crusting may be a problem which affects emergence and pay attention to the seed planting depth. Finally, older seed or poorly stored seed may not germinate and emerge as
expected.
Why are the flowers falling off my plants?
Plants may have been water or heat stressed just prior to or after the flowers open. Hot weather (above 95ºF) and dry conditions cause the plants to shed (abort)
flowers. Keep the soil moist and use organic mulches during the flowering stage to minimize stress.
Why do bean pods get stringy?
Stringy beans are further evidence of heat or water stress. Fibers in
the pods form during stress making them stringy.
Summary
All beans require full sun and fertile, well drained soil for maximum yield. Incorporate plenty of organic matter and a complete fertilizer into the soil before planting. When soils are above 60ºF, space rows 18-24 inches apart and plant
seeds 1 inch deep and 2-3 inches apart in the row. Plant beans every 14-21 days until mid-July for a continuous crop throughout the growing season. Beans require regular watering particularly at flowering, so maintain soils near field capacity.
Water stress will reduce yields and pod quality. Organic mulches help conserve water, supply extra nutrients and reduce the need for weeding. Control insect and
diseases if they occur. Harvest when pods are plump and full but before seeds develop. For dry beans delay harvest until pods are yellow and dry. Use fresh beans immediately for best quality.
Recommended Varieties
There are many good bean varieties for sale in local gardening outlets and through seed catalogs.
Most grow well in Utah. Pod shape, size, and color vary among varieties. Here is a list of some potential varieties and plant types that have performed well in Utah.
Bean Types Suggested Varieties
Bush Beans Blue Lake, Greencrop, Gold Crop, Kinghorn Wax, Royal Burgundy, Slenderette, Strike, Tendercrop
Pole Beans Blue Lake types, Kentucky Wonder, Romano
Dry Beans Kidney, Great Northern, Pinto, Blackbean, Blackeye Pea
How to Grow
Soil: Beans will grow in all soil types provided they are rich in organic matter, well drained, and fertile.
Soil Preparation: Before planting, incorporate 2-3 inches of well composted organic matter and 1 lb of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per 100 square feet of garden area. Work compost and fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 inches.
Plants: Beans are warm weather vegetables that require soil and air temperatures above 60ºF for best germination and plant growth. Start planting beans one week before the last frost-free date for your area. Seedlings will emerge in 7-10 days when planted in soil that has warmed to 65-85ºF.
Planting and Spacing: To plant 100 feet of row, you will need about 3-4 ounces of seed. Extra seed can be stored and used the next year. Plant seeds 1 inch deep, spaced 2-3 inches apart, in rows 18-24 inches wide. No thinning is necessary if plant stands are too thick. Plant bush beans every 14-21 days until mid-July for continuous production throughout the growing season. Bush beans require 50-60 days to
mature depending on variety. Pole beans generally produce pods over a very long time period so one or two plantings are necessary each year. Dry beans planted after July 1 generally will not mature in cooler areas of Utah but will produce mature seeds in the warmer regions of Southern Utah. Mulching the crop during the
summer will reduce soil water loss and increase nutrient availability.
Support: Most bean varieties are bush plants that do not need support during growth. Pole beans are climbing types that flower over long time periods thus yielding more when trellised. Trellises also make harvest easier. Wooden poles or other fencing materials make ideal supports for beans. Plants climb naturally so little additional work is required other than construction of the supports.
Water: Beans require regular watering throughout growth for best production. Soil moisture levels should be maintained near field capacity. Do not overwater as wet soils promote root rot diseases and slow plant growth. Water needs are most critical during flowering and pod sizing. Drought stress during and after flowering will decrease yield due to flower abortion and reduce pod size and increase stringiness.
For dry beans, reduce water applications as the seeds begin to mature. Watering amounts depend on soil type and organic matter content.
Fertilization: Beans do not require additional fertilizer if an all-purpose fertilizer and compost was applied at planting. Additional applications of nitrogen will over-stimulate leaf growth, delay flowering and reduce pod set. Most beans fix some nitrogen from the air via soil bacteria attached to the plant roots.
Mulches and Row Covers: Plastic mulches can help conserve water, provide some frost
protection, and allow earlier planting and maturity. Fabric row covers also protect young plants from frosts. When using plastics and row covers, plant 2-3 weeks before the last frost date for your area. Apply organic mulches such as grass clippings, straw, and shredded newspaper in the heat of summer to help control weeds, improve soil water holding capacity, and increase nutrient availability.
Pest Control
Weeds: Control weeds with regular cultivation, especially when plants are small. Avoid root damage that slows plant growth. Closer row spacing and dense growth help reduce weed pressure.
Insects and Diseases: Most mustard is fast growing and is not susceptible to many production problems. Rotating locations from year to year helps control most diseases.
Insect Identification Control
Mexican Bean Beetle and Leaf Beetle
These beetles are round, copper or tan colored with black spots on their wings. Beetles look like lady beetles. Larvae feed on roots, leaves, and pods doing the most damage when plants are small. Look for yellow eggs under leaves. Dust small plants with appropriate insecticides. Large, flowering plants can withstand feeding pressure with minimal loss in production. Leafhoppers: Small green wedge-shaped sucking insects that feed on leaf juices. Leaves curl and dry out.
Difficult to control as insects are very mobile.
Cutworms and Army Worms
These green, reddish, or black caterpillars grow up
to 2 inches long. Army worms will climb the plants
and feed on leaves and stems. Cutworms do most
of their feeding near the soil surface.
Control weeds and debris in the garden
that provide cover for the worms. Use
appropriate insecticides if populations are
high.
Disease Symptoms Control
Bean Blight: Small water soaked spots that enlarge and form
large lesion on stems, leaves, and pods.
Damp conditions favor this disease. Water
carefully and allow soil to dry between
irrigations.
Root Rot and Damping Off: Seedlings darken, wilt and die. Associated with
cool, wet conditions in the spring.
Use treated seed. Allow soils to dry
before re-watering.
Harvest and Storage
Bush and pole beans are harvested before the pods are fully mature. Pods should be full size, with small seeds, and firm, crisp flesh when picked. Pods are ready for harvest about 7-14 days after flowering. Pick regularly as the plant will flower and mature the pods for 2-3 weeks on bush varieties and for 5-6 weeks on pole types.
Harvest and use immediately for best quality and flavor. Refrigerate if not used
immediately. Dry beans are harvested when the pods are fully mature and they are beginning to dry. Pull up the plants and lay in a row in the garden for 5-7 days. Once plants are dry, remove the pods, shell out the seeds and allow some additional time for the seeds to dry further. For long term storage, keep in sealed containers in a cool dry place.
Productivity
Expect 75 lbs per 100 feet of row from bush types and 125 lbs from pole types. Plant 5-15 feet of row per person for fresh use and an additional 10-20 feet of row per person for canning or freezing. With dry beans expect about 20-25 lbs of seed per 100 feet of row.
Nutrition
Fresh bean pods are high in fiber, low in calories, and a good source of vitamin C. Dry bean seeds are excellent sources of protein, phosphorus, iron, vitamin B1, fiber, and have very low levels of cholesterol.
Frequently Asked Questions
I sometimes have problems getting my beans to emerge in the garden.
Beans generally germinate and emerge well regardless of garden conditions. If you plant when soils are below 60ºF, germination is greatly reduced. In heavy clay soils, crusting may be a problem which affects emergence and pay attention to the seed planting depth. Finally, older seed or poorly stored seed may not germinate and emerge as
expected.
Why are the flowers falling off my plants?
Plants may have been water or heat stressed just prior to or after the flowers open. Hot weather (above 95ºF) and dry conditions cause the plants to shed (abort)
flowers. Keep the soil moist and use organic mulches during the flowering stage to minimize stress.
Why do bean pods get stringy?
Stringy beans are further evidence of heat or water stress. Fibers in
the pods form during stress making them stringy.
3.15.2009
Schedule and News for March 16 - 21
We've been working in our Gardens now for almost ONE month now and have made SO much progress. Besides all the progress in the garden, I love all the new friends I am making. It is fantastic!
Here is the schedule for this week. It's slightly different than our regular week. I have a commitment on Tuesday night that I can't get out of and I really want to be here when you're working on all of our gardens, especially in my backyard, so here is the plan for this week. Come as often as you like.
Be sure and check the garden blog often since I'm posting new photos and new info often. You'll see all the progress we've made. Book mark this link and check it often so see what's happening.
http://sherylsgardengroup.blogspot.com/
Welcome ALL new members! You will love our group! Even if you haven't been here for a while or ever, please come and join us! There's always some work for everyone to do.
Monday, March 16, 4:30 - 6 pm
Tuesday, March 17, 3:30 - 5:30 pm
Thursday, March 19, 5 - 7:30 pm
Friday, March 20, 10 - 12 noon
Saturday, March 21, 2 - 5 pm
If you can, bringing branch cutter and shovels this week, along w/ workgloves. Besides pruning and cutting, we are tilling and working on moving mulch and manure to 4 garden areas this week. Bob is bringing more white food storage/garden buckets this week. Everyone needs at least ONE or more buckets for the garden work. He's getting them for $1 each. A really good deal!! Plan to get one this week if you can if you don't have one already OR you want more.
Give me a heads up on when you will be coming this week so I can start organizing who will be working where. Thanks so much and see you soon!!
Here is the schedule for this week. It's slightly different than our regular week. I have a commitment on Tuesday night that I can't get out of and I really want to be here when you're working on all of our gardens, especially in my backyard, so here is the plan for this week. Come as often as you like.
Be sure and check the garden blog often since I'm posting new photos and new info often. You'll see all the progress we've made. Book mark this link and check it often so see what's happening.
http://sherylsgardengroup.blogspot.com/
Welcome ALL new members! You will love our group! Even if you haven't been here for a while or ever, please come and join us! There's always some work for everyone to do.
Monday, March 16, 4:30 - 6 pm
Tuesday, March 17, 3:30 - 5:30 pm
Thursday, March 19, 5 - 7:30 pm
Friday, March 20, 10 - 12 noon
Saturday, March 21, 2 - 5 pm
If you can, bringing branch cutter and shovels this week, along w/ workgloves. Besides pruning and cutting, we are tilling and working on moving mulch and manure to 4 garden areas this week. Bob is bringing more white food storage/garden buckets this week. Everyone needs at least ONE or more buckets for the garden work. He's getting them for $1 each. A really good deal!! Plan to get one this week if you can if you don't have one already OR you want more.
Give me a heads up on when you will be coming this week so I can start organizing who will be working where. Thanks so much and see you soon!!
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